I'd been wanting to visit Madeira for years—islands always fascinate me with their unique flora and culture. Arrived in October 2024, just a month after wildfires had swept through and closed the famous Pico-to-Pico trail. But what I found was both beautiful and resilient.
Started in Funchal. Growing up in Northeast Brazil, the city felt very familiar with its colonial architecture and vibrant colors. Caught sunrise at Pico do Areeiro in pitch-black cold, surrounded by crowds but somehow still ethereal when the sun finally rose above the clouds. The west side was dramatically rugged with its cliffs and banana groves. Paul da Serra plateau was completely different—flat, windy, and beautiful. The Fanal Forest's twisted trees were striking, even without the famous mist.
The east felt more rural and traditional. Met a farmer in Santana tending to pregnant pigs, kindly showing us his basement that doubles as animal shelter in winter. Made me think about the privileges we take for granted. The Rabaçal Valley hike through 16th-century levadas was peaceful once the crowds thinned, ending with a wet tunnel carved by hand that felt like stepping into another world. Pictures really can't capture the diverse landscapes here—definitely want to return.
